Traveling with Littles, Paris Edition 🇫🇷
No matter the traveler, everyone wants to have a memorable (ideally celebratory, positive even!) vacation. The tricky part of adulthood is keeping enough fun and excitement in the tank to jazz up the other humans, usually younger ones, that, come on, you are trying to “culture” in the first place.
In Paris, I promise you, it’s possible.
So, for this edition of my travel tips, I cover:
Paris with children
Latitude:48.856663 / Longitude: 2.351556
What comes to mind?
Hint: Romance, indulgence … children?!
I think of the Eiffel Tower, crepes and croissants, and Pepe LePew. Ok not really re the third, but I’m channeling the child in me, and trying not to disclose any Dick Widger buying saddles at Hermès stories, right out of the gates. Another time.
In an effort to balance my son’s somewhat high-maintenance need for fun + my only-child daily, needed, “me” time, I deliver you: the city of Light.
🇫🇷 Back to Les Basics. Paris.
The food.
I think most kids can get behind croissants, chocolate (the French kind!), macarons, eclairs, and meringue. They won’t be the only ones to have a great experience with this food tour that everyone will enjoy. Someone to lead you to the sweets and sortof help you connect with your jet-lagged children? Worth a try.
It starts in Le Merais, snakes through the streets of the third and fourth arrondissements, and ends with wine and cheese near Notre Dame. Learning about the architecture, eating French pastries, learning something new alongside my Littles … sign me up. Info: French Sweets Walk, $105pp, 2.5 hours, no Monday availability
Speaking of Notre Dame, even as the medieval Catholic cathedral’s renovations from the April 2019 fire are underway, it’s worth a visit. You can walk around the perimeter and learn about the original French gothic architecture, and the post-fire recovery plans.
It’s on a ship-shaped island, Ile de la Cite, which can be a fun fact for the little humans. Marche aux Fleurs is worth a quick stop, and is just a few meters from the Cathedral. Grandparent gift inspiration guaranteed.
For the fifth grade set studying Greek and Roman legends, it is believed that the site of the current Notre Dame structure was a Gallo-Roman (1st to 5th century AD) temple dedicated to Jupiter, the Roman equivalent of Zeus. Modern story lovers can connect to Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame (queue Disney graphics). Long story short, a lot of people have been praying, for a lot of years, on that very piece of island.
Ok here’s the deal. Long lines stink. Queueing multiple times to enter one spot is not my idea of fun. But I promise you, the moment you walk into Sainte Chapelle, after a few lines to enter via Palais de la Cite, it all becomes worth it.
The chapel’s intricate stained glass windows, depicting various biblical stories, make magic for all those who experience it. It’s the spot built to house Louis IX’s prize possession, the Crown of thorns. Buy tickets in advance to help with the queuing.
So for the less colorful among us, there is La Concierge, also part of Palais de la Cite, where visitors can explore some darker parts of French history.
Visiting La Concierge will check off a “fascinatingly-morbid” activity for your crew. During the French Revolution the palace was converted to a prison. Marie Antoneitte lived out her final weeks in a cell there. Imagine being a prisoner during the Revolution awaiting your execution? Well you can imagine it at this museum, with recreated jail spaces, and relics from the 18th century.
Info: La Conciergerie You get a discount with the purchase of a river cruise. Also, do this with children (more to below).
While you’re on Ile de la Cite, grab a baguette and head to Square du Vert Galant. It’s at the end of the island, and it’s beautiful. I think so many people miss this stop and, with the River Seine all around you, it’s a lovely spot to breathe in that Parisian air.
Speaking of uncommon activities in Paris, have you heard the one about the taxidermy shop? No?
Deyrolle taxidermy shop was founded in 1831 and it’s weird. But it’s usually a monster hit with the small human set. Trying to set you up to succeed over here.
One lovely mental note I have made, equally, between Paris and NYC (you’re welcome, Paris), is that of children launching boats in a little pond in the middle of an urban environment. Small boat stuff, at Les Petits Bateaux, can provide a little bit of competition in your day. Boat rentals for 30 minutes are €6 at Jardin Luxembourg.
Note, this is different from my daughter’s fashion brand of choice in her toddler years, Petit Bateau.
Back to the food.
You snapped some photos with junior and his croissant, jet lag is getting better, and you’re dreaming about when you can live in Paris for a few months.
Wake Up! You have small humans to organize!
So this really works. Visit the HERE to book a photographer. While you are late night google’ing, book a session to forever capture love and light, you know, in the city of love and light.
While fun and glam, you don’t need to hire a professional photographer to get a great commemorative photo. The insider tip is to arrive early at Place du Trocadero. Real devotees wake up at sunrise and stage insta-moments with colorful balloons or ooooh lala product pushes so you might not be alone, but it’s worth the stop.
After a few must-dos. one must decide, city tour or Versailles, oh wait, Disneyland Paris, is there enough time? I say if you’re in Paris five or more nights, without a doubt, even with jetlag, you have time take a train to Switzerland, so Versailles should be no biggie! More on that later. I have done a few city bus tours, most recently the Tootbus Tour. Honestly, the English speaking talk track was a bit annoying, but any one of these hop on and hop off buses is a wonderful way to see the city.
Of all the renowned Parisien museums, my favorite is Musee D’Orsay. For me, those words elicit Degas’ dancers, an airy museum in the middle of my second favorite city, and a huge clock that is the romantic backdrop in so many movies.
To best engage the small humans, and my attention deficit, take a page from my book and book a scavenger hunt at Musee D’Orsay.
I am blessed to be surrounded by talented artists and creators. Same thing goes for those in the Montmartre section of Paris. Visit via uber or metro, and be inspired.
Leave the loubies at home for a visit to Montmartre though, with it’s cobblestone streets, seemingly all leading “up” to Sacré CĹ“ur, wear comfortable shoes.
The funicular is a nice activity during a Montmartre visit, and a metro ticket is all you need. Search Rue Tardieu in Google maps for the ride’s start.
If the funicular sounds like a good mode of transportation to you, try out a Seine cruise with the family. This option has inside and outside seating, food and beverages for purchase, and English-speaking tour guides. Info: Vedettes de Paris boat tours, 60 minutes, Children €9 and Adults €18, board near the Eiffel Tower
If you’re feeling up for a little adventure, hire a tour guide or hop a train to Versailles. And read about it here, for visiting with children.
2023 is a silver anniversary for the Disney properties, so if there is a year to make the trek, this is it.
I mentioned an excursion to Switzerland earlier, and it really is possible. To tour Geneva, you don’t really need more than one day. Hop the high speed train from Gare du Nord to Gare Cornavin, door to door in about three and a half hours. If you time it right, you can hit multiple countries in just one day!
I hope these tips are helpful. And remember, taste testing gelato, or different crêperies, makes for memorable experiences too, not every fun memory has to involve a museum ticket or train ride!